I arrive in a Mexican neighborhood with the same appetite I bring to any city: curious, slightly hungry, and ready to wander until I find something unexpected. In Mexico City, that usually means following smells — smoke from a grill, chile and citrus in the air — but when you’re looking specifically for vegan street food, you need a few more tools than your nose. Here’s how I find real, local, vegan bites across neighborhoods beyond La Roma, mixing practical language tips, neighborhood hacks, and the kinds of stalls I actually stop at with my camera.
Start with the markets and plazas
Markets are the best single resource. They’re dense, noisy, full of options and run by people who’ve fed their neighborhoods for decades. I head to markets where locals shop for daily food rather than the hipster markets aimed at tourists.
Mercado de Coyoacán — morning stalls sell tlacoyos, esquites, fruit cups and grilled nopales. Ask vendors to prepare items “sin queso ni crema” and confirm they’re cooked on a clean griddle.Mercado Portales (Portales) — sprawling produce and antojitos section. You can find tlacoyos filled with beans, sopes without cheese, and freshly grilled vegetables.Mercado Jamaica — known for flowers but close to vendors who sell prepared snacks; a great place to find seasonal fruits and agua frescas without dairy.When I’m shooting, markets offer the best light around stalls at golden hour. I aim for soft side light that reveals texture — charred nopal, the shimmer on esquites — and I bring a small diffuser (or use a white napkin) to soften harsh midday sun in close-ups.
Neighborhoods that surprise
Beyond the well-trodden Roma/Condesa axis, these neighborhoods consistently deliver plant-based street options:
Coyoacán — cobbled streets, plazas, and long-standing antojito stalls. It’s a great morning walk; vendors will happily adapt tlacoyos and tacos if you ask.Centro Histórico — not just tourist stands; hidden alley vendors and mercados like La Lagunilla or San Juan (closer to Centro) offer vegetarian-friendly snacks and dishes. Be explicit about lard.San Ángel & Tlacopac — weekend markets and plaza vendors with vegetable-forward options; good for a slower stroll and desserts like paletas de fruta (fruit pops).Narvarte and Del Valle — residential neighborhoods that host small tortillerías and street carts; you’ll find excellent papas tacos, quesadillas without cheese (order “sin queso”), and vegetarian garnishes.Tlalpan & Xochimilco — the south has traditional stands where grilled vegetables and nopales are common; Xochimilco’s food boats sometimes serve vegetarian options if you ask.Street dishes that are easy to veganize
Some classic items are already plant-based or can be made so with a few simple requests. These are my go-to asks when scanning a menu or a cart:
Tacos de papa — fried potato tacos are filling and usually vegan.Tlacoyos — thick masa patties stuffed with beans or fava; order without quesillo or natilla.Quesadillas (without cheese) — many stands will make a folded tortilla with mushrooms, flor de calabaza, or huitlacoche if you say “sin queso”.Elote / Esquites — ask for “sin mayonesa ni queso”; request lime, chile powder and salt instead.Tostadas with beans and veg — ask for them without crema or cheese.Nopales (grilled cactus) — widely available and delicious; great with salsa and onions.Fruit cups and paletas — often vegan; verify there’s no condensed milk or cream.What to say — Spanish lines that save you time
Language is a shortcut to trust. I don’t speak flawless Spanish, but I use a few short phrases that vendors appreciate because they’re clear and respectful:
“¿Esto lleva carne?” — Does this contain meat?“Sin queso ni crema, por favor.” — Without cheese or cream, please.“¿Lo cocina con manteca?” — Do you cook it with lard?“¿Puede ser sin…?” — Can it be without…?Pointing at ingredients on the stall or handing over your phone with a short note in Spanish is also useful. Most vendors will appreciate the effort rather than a long explanation.
Apps, socials and maps
I use digital tools to find recent, local tips rather than curated lists that focus on tourist areas:
Google Maps — search “taquería vegana”, “antojitos veganos” or “street food” plus the neighborhood. Read the latest reviews for mentions of vegan options.HappyCow — good for permanent vegan places, and many reviewers note street vendors nearby.Instagram — search hashtags like #veganCDMX, #veganmexico or neighborhood tags (e.g., #Coyoacán) to find small vendors and pop-ups.Local Facebook groups — expat and vegan groups often share real-time tips about mobile stalls and weekend markets.How to avoid cross-contamination
Street food is often cooked on the same griddle as meat. If you’re strict about cross-contamination, mention it up front:
Ask if tortillas are warmed on the same comal as meat — say “¿Si las calienta en otra plancha o con la misma carne?”Request they use a fresh tortilla or a clean spot on the griddle.Choose stalls that prepare vegetable items separately when possible (vegetable-only tlacoyos, salad cups, fruit stands).Times and rhythms
There’s a rhythm to when different types of street food are best:
Morning — mercados, tlacoyos, tamales, and warm antojitos.Afternoon — paletas, fruit cups, esquites, and vendor-plaza snacks.Late night — taco stands that stay open late often have potato or nopales tacos; they’re less likely to be crowded by tourists.Vegan spots that blur the line with street food
Some small restaurants and taquerías focus on vegan versions of street classics. I seek these out because they often combine the authenticity of street food with clear vegan labeling.
Por Siempre Vegana Taquería — a well-known vegan taquería with several locations; they recreate many street favorites using jackfruit, soy chorizo, and marinated mushrooms.Small, family-run vegetarian stands — you’ll often find them in markets or near university campuses; they’re unpretentious and honest about ingredients.Practical packing and safety tips
I travel light but prepared:
Carry small bills and coins; many vendors don’t accept cards.Bring hand sanitizer and a napkin — markets can be dusty.Pack a small emergency snack (nuts or a bar) in case a stall runs out of vegan options.Trust your instincts about hygiene; a busy, clean-looking stall is usually a good bet.My favorite quick itinerary for an afternoon hunt
When I have a few hours and a camera, this is my loop:
Start at a local mercado (arrive mid-morning).Photograph the display stalls and pick a shared plaza bench to try tlacoyos or esquites.Wander toward a nearby residential street for a small tortilla stand — ask for a naked quesadilla with mushrooms or flor de calabaza.Finish with a paleta or fruit cup and a slow photo walk in the neighborhood plaza to record textures and faces.Quick checklist
| Before you go | Download maps, a language note, and a list of nearby markets |
| At the stall | Ask “sin…”, check for lard, request separate cooking if needed |
| Photographing | Golden hour or soft side light, capture textures and vendor hands |
Finding vegan street food in Mexico City outside La Roma is as much about curiosity as it is about technique. Markets, simple Spanish phrases, and a willingness to ask for small changes open up an enormous range of flavors. Walk slowly, follow the smells that feel plant-forward, and don’t be afraid to ask vendors to tweak a classic — I do it all the time, and that’s how I discover the city’s best surprises.
