City Guides

I arrived in Porto with a notebook full of names and a camera that, predictably, kept finding reflections in the Douro. What I was after wasn’t the glossy postcard shot of cellars stacked like dominoes on Gaia’s waterfront, but the quieter corners where port is still tasted by the people who make it. Over several visits I wandered from the busy lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia to small quintas upriver, tasting tawny that smelled of orange peel...

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I have a soft spot for kitchens that blur borders, and Lima’s chifa scene does that in a way few other food traditions can: it’s Chinese technique filtered through Peruvian ingredients, cooked fast and loud over a blistering wok. I spend hours wandering markets and back alleys to find the chifas that feel lived-in — pork fat sizzling, steam clouding the doorways, regulars who order without looking at the menu. If you want to find authentic...

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I have a habit of chasing light. In Bangkok that often means waking before the city fully stirs and climbing to a rooftop where the skyline reads like a living map: temples and cranes, canals and glass towers, and, if I'm lucky, a slice of sky that turns from indigo to molten gold. Rooftop breakfasts in Bangkok are a curious hybrid — some places are full-service hotel terraces with elegant breakfast buffets, others are humble rooftop cafes...

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I love wandering Casablanca’s old medina without a guide. There’s a particular pleasure in letting your senses stitch together the city: the first whiff of frying oil from a tucked-away stall, the scrape of sandals on uneven stone, a chorus of bargaining voices, the sudden flash of cobalt tile behind a wooden door. If you want to plan a sensory walking route through the medina — one that’s safe, manageable and full of texture —...

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I wake before dawn in Porto because the city’s azulejo-clad facades have a way of changing their moods with the light — and I want to be there to photograph both. This one-day itinerary is built around two brief but magical windows: golden hour before sunset and blue hour after the sun dips. Between them I propose slow wandering, a few strategic stops for coffee and food, and a handful of lesser-known alleys where tiles surprise you. Bring a...

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